Sammlung hervorragender sartorialer Essays

Ich steige hoch ein mit dem einzigen Aufsatz, den Cary Grant selbst zum Thema geschrieben hat: http://www.keikari.com/english/cary-grants-style-philosophy/

Auch in Haltung und Tonfall sehr sympathisch, ein echter Gentleman-Aristoteliker.

Und wenn ich in Zukunft meinen schwarzen Mantel trage, kann ich mich jetzt immer auf Cary Grant berufen: "The topcoat I use for traveling can be worn spring or fall. It’s black and therefore not only less apt to show dirt and travel stains, but usable for both day and formal wear." :D
 
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Das eigentlich bemerkenswerte Zitat aus dem Grant Essay finde ich ja

Don’t be a snob about the way you dress. Snobbery is only a point in time. Be tolerant and helpful to the other fellow—he is yourself yesterday.

Weise Worte, gerade auch in diesem Forum :)
 
Grob: ja.

Da es leider kein zentrales, enzyklopädisches Werk gibt, dass die Schuhterminologie und -nomenklatur regelt (grummel), kann man nicht zu 100% sicher sein, was er meint. Gut möglich ist, dass er eine etwas formlosere Variante meint, also im Wortsinn: einen Schuh, der die Form verliert, wenn kein Fuß drin ist. Aber eben grundsätzlich die gleiche Machart wie der Schuh, den wir hier als Loafer bezeichnen.
 
Das passt womöglich nicht 100% zum Begriff "sartorial," aber da es IMO zu den bemerkenswerten philosophischen Betrachtungen über Bekleidung gehört werfe ich mal Thoreaus Einsichten aus dem 1. Kapitel von Walden (Economy) in die Runde. Nachzulesen u.a. hier:

http://www.literaturepage.com/read/walden-16.html

Leseproben :) :
"Kings and queens who wear a suit but once, though made by some tailor or dressmaker to their majesties, cannot know the comfort of wearing a suit that fits. They are no better than wooden horses to hang the clean clothes on. Every day our garments become more assimilated to ourselves, receiving the impress of the wearer's character, until we hesitate to lay them aside without such delay and medical appliances and some such solemnity even as our bodies. No man ever stood the lower in my estimation for having a patch in his clothes; yet I am sure that there is greater anxiety, commonly, to have fashionable, or at least clean and unpatched clothes, than to have a sound conscience."

"When I ask for a garment of a particular form, my tailoress tells me gravely, "They do not make them so now," not emphasizing the "They" at all, as if she quoted an authority as impersonal as the Fates, and I find it difficult to get made what I want, simply because she cannot believe that I mean what I say, that I am so rash. When I hear this oracular sentence, I am for a moment absorbed in thought, emphasizing to myself each word separately that I may come at the meaning of it, that I may find out by what degree of consanguinity They are related to me, and what authority they may have in an affair which affects me so nearly; and, finally, I am inclined to answer her with equal mystery, and without any more emphasis of the "they" -- "It is true, they did not make them so recently, but they do now." Of what use this measuring of me if she does not measure my character, but only the breadth of my shoulders, as it were a peg to bang the coat on? We worship not the Graces, nor the Parcae, but Fashion. She spins and weaves and cuts with full authority. The head monkey at Paris puts on a traveller's cap, and all the monkeys in America do the same. I sometimes despair of getting anything quite simple and honest done in this world by the help of men."
 
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